porte plainte !!junior a écrit :Allez on recommence cette nuit ça a "Rafaigué" dur !je suis arriver dans la truffiere a apparament je n etais pas le premier!!!!7 ou 8 trous non reboucher!!!
histoire de me mettre de bonne humeur!
Thursday, 17 November 2005
by Anna Tyzack
It is common for women in South-West France to be missing a couple of fingers, according to an age-old legend. For pigs are just as unwilling to hand over a priceless Perigord truffle as the next person and will not think twice about biting the hand that feeds them. Thus today's truffle hunters use dogs rather than pigs, preferably small ones so their paws do not damage the truffles.
'A single basket of truffles can be a whole month's income,' Perigord 'trufficulteur' Hugues Martin explains seriously. We are standing in a field completely filled with neat rows of oak trees. 'Truffles are hidden by nature so farmers like myself must hide their truffle hounds so thieves cannot use them to find them.' There is no specific breed of truffle hound. Martin uses a black Labrador, Louisiane, and a mongrel, Mickey. The dogs are trained to mark the truffle by putting a paw over it until the owner arrives and using a scraper, extricates it from the ground.
Martin has been plagued by thieves since he started farming truffles ten years ago. 'The thieves would wait for my car to leave the drive,' He says, 'Or for my wife to take the children to school. They would come at night with their car headlights switched off. I did not sleep for three years, I would just lie in bed and listen'.
On one of these nights, Martin was sure he heard someone arrive and crept downstairs, fearing for his precious truffles. But outside there was no sign of movement so he returned to the house. But just as he had finished undressing and got into bed, he heard the sound of a car engine. 'It was the end,' he explains, 'I picked up my gun and headed outside. When I could see the thief I fired the trigger and heard him yell. He ran and ran and ran…'
Three gun shots did the trick. 'When I became known as the local cowboy the poachers stopped visiting,' Martin proudly explains. On the final occasion Martin foiled the poachers by driving off in his car whilst leaving his wife to patrol with the gun. 'She is a professional pistol shot – she does not miss,' Martin tells me. 'Last December, there were three days of heavy fog – like cotton,' Martin's eyes widen, 'And afterwards all the truffles in the area had been visited…but not mine'.
Martin is fascinated by truffles to the point of obsession. 'There are many things we don't understand about them,' he says, 'For example this year summer was very dry but where I irrigated I found less truffles. There is much left unanswered in the truffle system'.
In his greenhouse Martin attempts to increase truffle production by growing young oak plants and carefully inoculating the roots with truffle spores – a process known a 'mychorisation'. But truffle farming demands unwavering patience: these young trees will not be planted outside for another two years and it will be ten to fifteen years before they start producing truffles.
Through vigorous research and experimentation, Martin has discovered that truffles grow best in well draining, warm soils. Truffle presence is marked by a 'brulée' or fairy ring, a circle of earth, often around a tree trunk, where no vegetation will grow. 'A tree can produce three or five truffles one year then a kilo the next,' Martin explains, 'As the years go by the truffles are found further from the tree towards the perimeter of the brulée'. When they reach the edge, truffle production is over and it is worth digging up the field and planting with something else to give the soil a rest.
Michael Bamberger is an Englishman living in Perigord who has also developed a penchant for truffle hunting. 'You know when there are truffles because the truffle fly is in residence,' he explains, 'When the sun is behind you it is possible to stir up the truffle flies using a stick and watch them land on the spots where there are truffles'.
The black Perigord truffle is a winter truffle, maturing through December, January and February. Martin harvests his 12 hectare plot himself, selling fresh truffles immediately at the nearby Sainte-Foy de Longas truffle market or at St. Alvère, one of the biggest truffle markets in the area. According to Bamberger, the market opens at 8am and by 8:30am all the truffles have been sold. 'Truffle markets are on Monday so you get robbed on a Sunday,' he explains, adding it was on a Sunday last year when a poacher hacked all his truffles out of the ground. Martin also sells truffles to private individuals, mailing them all over the world. The rest he cooks and stores in tins or uses them in preserves and oils to sell at the truffle farm.
'I tell people truffles are a bit like oysters. Once you decide to buy them you have to eat them quickly' he says, 'It is possible to keep them in the fridge for a week but everyday they lose weight and flavour'. And big is certainly not best with truffles, 'The smaller truffles have the strongest flavour,' he explains, 'The large ones are often over ripe and either have no flavour or have gone bad'. Bamberger tells me that if you put a truffle into a box of eggs for a couple of days the aroma will infuse into the eggs, leaving them tasting of truffles. I ask him how the black Perigord variety differs from the white Italian truffles so sought after by the kitchens of many London's restaurants. 'The white truffles are supposed to be superior,' he admits tentatively, 'But you can't convince a Perigordin that they are better.'
Anna Tyzack visited Truffiere de La Bergerie while staying atLe Bourdil Blanc. For more information on holidays in the Dordogne please clickhere or email Jane Hanslip
For further details on Truffiere de La Bergerie please clickhereor emailHugues Martin
For tips on buying property in France, click here.
Hugues Martin is the only truffle oil producer to use only oil and truffles, no chemicals. He recommends that both truffles and truffle oil are not used in cooking but as an infusion beforehand or added to the finished dish. See below for a selection of his recipes.
Deux voleurs de truffes interpellés
Depuis le drame de Grignan, en décembre dernier, la gendarmerie a redoublé de vigilance dans sa surveillance des truffières. L’opération coup-de-poing mené dans les truffières de Valréas le 30 décembre dernier, témoignait déjà de cette volonté.
Hier, vers 15 heures, le travail des forces de l’ordre a payé. Les hommes de la brigade de Valréas ont interpellé en flagrant délit, deux voleurs de truffes. Il s’agit d’un homme et d’une femme qui ont passé la nuit en garde à vue dans les locaux de la brigade. Le parquet de Carpentras, devrait prendre aujourd’hui une décision sur les suites judiciaires à donner à cette affaire.
le capitaine de peleton qui avait donné son portable perso n a recu que 2 appels en 2 mois et la brigade de valreas seulement 5 plaintes.
tous le monde ce plaint des vols mais chacun chez soit dans son coin !!!
quand au syndicat , sans commentaire !!!! vivement que joel ce presente a la presidence et qu on vote tous pour lui .
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si le syndicat ne se porte pas partie civile dans l'histoire de valréas: faut les faire sauter ces bandes d'incapable pour notre défense.
Jerome je ne savais pas que tu faisait partie es membres du syndicat de producteur de truffes du 84 ?
"quoique l'on dise ou que l'on fasse le cul du rabassier sentira toujours le thym"
je pense que je vais creer une commission truffe au sein de la chambre d agriculture car si j y reusi nous aurons un poid plus important , mais cela ne s adresse qu a des agiculteurs cotisants , on verra bien .jerome
Au moins avec un syndicat de "pros" on aurait des comportements "pro", et tant pis pour les autres à la fin, il faudra bien qu'ils comprennent qu'ils ont en fin de compte la situation qu'ils méritent :sick:..... là je sens que je perds des voix :rolleyes: mais ça me soulage, autant être clair sur ce qu'on veux, pour avoir une chance de changer les choses il faut commencer par se changer soi même, dans l'autre sens ça ne marche pas..... il fut un temps ou les chefs de guerre "montaient en première ligne".....